I finally understand why Gladys Knight & the Pips took a midnight train to Georgia. After a whirlwind trip to Savannah last week, I’m hooked on the state of lush gardens and fried chicken. My favorite cities to travel to are those that feel stuck in time, relics of an older, more complicated, but also more glamorous past. Savannah is exactly that. Hat shops and vintage stores line the boulevards and every block leads to another square full of historic homes and weeping willows.
Where to Stay
I stayed at Hotel Indigo, where location is key. Situated right outside Ellis Square, it’s easy to walk from the hotel to most major Savannah sights. When coming from the Savannah airport, the 100x shuttle bus takes you directly to Ellis Square for only $5. But note, the bus only takes exact cash.
The hotel’s decor is beautiful and the location makes up for occasional inconsistencies in the housekeeping. It’s also right near the waterfront, a hotspot for tourist nightlife.
What to Do
Honestly you could spend days exploring Savannah’s parks alone. These people know how to make a fountain. If you’re looking to carry that historic romance through your trip, I recommend one of the many historic homes tours. I did three, Owens-Thomas House, Sorrel-Weed House, and Harper-Fowlkes house. The first is best for history lovers, the second for ghost story buffs (they do a nighttime paranormal tour) and the third for feminists, it was owned by an AWESOME lady. I really think it takes several tours to satisfy the craving.
It turns out not everything in Savannah is frozen in time. The Telfair Jepson Center for the Arts had some incredible contemporary art exhibits. They also offer a few stunning sculpture parks including the rooftop one pictured below. The Telfair Museums conglomerate owns Owens-Thomas house so admission at Jepson also gets you in there or at any of their other locations.
Vintage shopping is a huge trend in Savannah. There’s vintage stores every block with everything from clothing to furniture to collectibles. I purchased two beautiful old costume rings from Wright Square Antique Mall. That’s another thing, there’s 1,000 squares in Savannah (okay, 23) so everything is located at one.
Where to Eat
One of the most famous restaurants in Savannah is Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room. In the 1940s, a woman named Mrs. Wilkes ran a boarding house on West Jones Street. For a fee you got a room in the house and several daily meals served communally in the dining room. Now the restaurant serves traditional, Southern-style communal lunches for $23 a person. In addition to their famous fried chicken, they serve 27 additional courses. No, really.
The restaurant is open for only 3 hours every day and there’s always a line down the block and around the corner. I waited an hour and managed to get in to the first seating. I recommend coming at least a half an hour before they open at 11. The food was delicious. I’m no expert in Southern cooking but it did the trick for me. But what I loved even more was the communal eating setup. As a solo traveler it was an easy opportunity to meet people and share a meal.
For after dinner drinks I recommend Alley Cat, owned by a fellow Bostonian. It’s an underground speakeasy in the back alley of a building with a great vibe and awesome cocktails.
For a dose of Southern elegance and rich, if sometimes guilt-ridden, history, Savannah is a must. Whether stopping by for a week or a weekend, the slow Southern pace and friendly residents create a transformative experience.
Please note, I was provided with complimentary goods and or services by some of the above businesses. However, all opinions expressed are my own.