Last week I jetted off to Santa Fe, New Mexico, and I’m already dreaming of going back. First off, Santa Fe is one of the art centers of the United States. You quite literally can’t walk a foot without finding a gallery of some kind. It’s also an illustration of the diversity of the United States landscape. I haven’t spent much time in the Southwest and it’s like another world compared to New England. There’s a lot not to like about America right now, but we’re lucky to have so many different cultures in one country.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Hotel Santa Fe, the only Native American owned hotel in the city. Owned by the Picuris tribe, the hotel houses an award-winning collection of Native American artwork, including works by artists of the pueblo. It’s located just a 12 minute walk from downtown Santa Fe and the hotel runs free shuttles anywhere you want to go within a mile radius (which is anywhere in downtown Santa Fe).
Hotel Santa Fe has two sections, the main hotel and then the Hacienda where the spa and suites are. We stayed in a beautiful suite in the Hacienda with a living room, bedroom, enormous bathroom, and balcony. The living room featured a gas fireplace. Hacienda suites also come with butler service and complimentary breakfast and cocktail hour every day. With amenities like this, it was difficult to find a reason to leave the hotel.
We took full advantage of the shuttle and happy hour services. It was wonderful to be able to shuttle to dinner and not have to count cocktails. The property also features an outdoor hot tub and pool, a fitness center, free wifi, and it’s pet friendly! Not to mention the New York Times was delivered to our room and available in every public space. This seems trivial but as a journalist it was great to receive the Times when a lot of hotels are cutting costs with USA Today. It was the little touches like the paper and the local, Señor Murphy chocolates left on our pillow every night that made the experience.
What to Do
If you do decide to venture out of the hotel, you’ll find endless options for education and entertainment. As I mentioned, one of Santa Fe’s primary draws is the art scene. Not only are there are plethora of art institutions and galleries, but every hotel, restaurant, and heck, even convenience store, has local artwork on the walls and for sale. Every space in Santa Fe operates dually as a gallery.
For traditional gallery spaces visit Canyon Road, a famed half-mile stretch of galleries and sculpture gardens. GF Contemporary was one of our favorites on the strip. The works were bold and fascinating and the owner George was more than happy to chat with us about each piece. For a more historical vibe, I recommend taking an art and history tour of La Fonda, the oldest hotel in Santa Fe. The space offers a collection of over 750 artworks and a crazy history. Willa Cather wrote Death Comes for the Archbishop at the hotel and it’s hosted four presidents in its lifetime.
Another must-see is Georgia O’Keeffe’s house in Abiquiu, New Mexico, about an hour outside of Santa Fe. In addition to an art historical monument, it’s an interesting look at private life in mid-century New Mexico. The tour is very quick, an hour with no extra time for roaming or photo ops. Stop along the way to take pictures (outside, none are permitted inside) because you won’t have another chance. The tour is geared towards the everyday audience so it’s not especially illuminating for those in the art world. But it is a special feeling to be in the space that so inspired the great artist.
When you need a mental break from the art influx, head to the Santa Fe National Forest. Spread over 1,558,452 acres, the forest offers an incredible spectrum of landscapes, and hikes to see them on. We hiked to the San Antonio Hot Springs, pictured above. It’s a 10-mile hike up a fire road and then another mile of steep climbing to get to the springs. But let me tell you, it’s worth it. We went on a Tuesday morning and had the springs to ourself for a good hour before other hikers can along.
In the summer the fire road is open for driving up the mountain, and then you only need to hike the last mile to the springs. Although to be honest I kind of think that’s cheating. I’ll be doing a more in-depth article next week on what to expect during the hike.
Where to Eat
There are so many incredible restaurants in Santa Fe, it’s hard to go wrong. But there are a few essentials. Sazón offers upscale, artisanal dishes by Mexican chef Fernando Olea. He mixes indigenous Mexican ingredients and traditions with avant-garde twists. The meal begins with a mole tasting which helps the Chef narrow down your preferences. Then you can choose a dish based off which mole you liked.
Sazón is famous for their grasshopper tacos infused with olive oil and chili and served with avocado, pictured above. The grasshopper piece might throw you but they were actually delicious. In addition to his incredible culinary talent, Chef Olea is an impeccable host and comes out to check in on his guests regularly. The icing on the cake is the decor. Large-scale portraits of Frida Kahlo by contemporary artists line the walls in homage to Chef Olea’s Mexican heritage. The paintings are badass, and for sale.
To break from tradition, head to Santacafe, a surprising and delightful fusion of Southwestern staples with Asian flavors. For example, the shiitake mushroom and cactus spring rolls (pictured below) blend local ingredients with a Japanese ponzu sauce.
The main dinner menu offers a range of dishes from the very authentic Poblano Chile Relleno to the classic comfort of File Mignon with mashed potatoes. I settled somewhere in the middle with Grilled Colorado “Rosen” Lamb Chops, and let me tell you, they were some of the most tender lamb chops I’ve ever eaten. This is a great spot for big, group meals. Everything from the cocktails to the dessert is good and the are options for every craving in your party.
For a taste of home we visited TerraCotta Wine Bistro. This crew is not messing around when it comes to wine. See that novel above that my brother’s reading, THAT’S the wine list. Not only do they have an unbelievable wine selection, the food is equally exceptional. It’s a lot of Southern comfort food, flank steak, fried chicken, smoked beef brisket, plus some global flavor, chicken saltimbocca, roasted duck leg, lamb kebob.
They even had oysters Rockefeller, an unusual delicacy for the area. This space too was decorated with entrancing artworks by local makers, and a guitarist strumming quietly in the corner. I imagine as a local it would be a great spot to come for wine and appetizers at the bar and some romantic ambience.
Before our art and history tour at La Fonda we had breakfast at La Plazuela, their interior courtyard restaurant. The courtyard was once open-air and when they eventually brought it into the interior the architect worked hard to make it still feel like an outdoor space. Huge skylights open the eating area up to the natural world. The original well for the hotel now serves as a soothing fountain in the middle. Trees, plants, and outdoor twinkle lights bring the space together.
Aside from the stunning design, the breakfast is no small matter. I had the croissant sandwich with tomato, bacon, cheese, and an over easy egg, pictured above. But they also offered Huevos Rancheros, Chile Relleno con Huevos de Cualquier Estilo, and other more authentic Southwestern dishes. Of course waffles, pancakes, and brioche french toast are also on the menu to satiate a sweet tooth.
There’s so much to see, do, (and eat!) in Santa Fe, we could’ve easily spent three weeks exploring the city and around it. I was surprised at how visiting the Southwest deepened my appreciation of the American landscape. Though to be fair, Santa Fe is still an insulated city politically (very liberal).
If you’re looking for natural and artistic beauty, Santa Fe should be your number one stop. It has the landscape of an Alfred Bierstadt painting, the artistic offerings of Art Basel, and the culinary prowess of New York, all in one place.
Please note: I was provided with complimentary goods and services by the above businesses, however, all opinions expressed are my own. Thank you for supporting those that support Trends and Tolstoy!