Amelia Island sits at the very northern point of Florida, right on the border of Georgia. A charming, historically rich island, it feels like a cross between Saint Augustine and Savannah, with a healthy dose of hip.
The closest airport is Jacksonville and from there it’s only a 30-40 minute drive to Amelia Island. I don’t drive much so I went car-less and was able to get around well. In Historic Fernandina everything is very walkable and taxis are available to get to other parts of the island. Uber and Lyft are sparse but if you schedule a ride in advance, especially to and from the airport, you can catch one.
Where to Stay
While visiting the island I had the pleasure of staying at The Fairbanks House, a bed and breakfast housed in the 1885 Italianate home of George Rainsford Fairbanks. The property is run by a kind a thoughtful father-son team Rob and Flint Batterton along with several other dedicated staff members. From the moment you walk through the heavy wooden front doors you feel like a guest in a good friend’s home.
Each room has its own unique features to offer. There are larger rooms, more akin to suites, with kitchen areas and spacious bathrooms, and more intimate rooms with cozy, historical architectural features. I stayed in The Library room, a queen bed room right off the main entrance that formerly served as the home’s study and library. The book storage is now a spacious walk in closet which was a big plus in my book and the room was beautifully decorated with a book motif.
The details make the experience here. In the morning the owner Rob himself cooks a multi-course breakfast for each guest, which can be enjoyed in the formal dining room or on the lush patio. 4-5pm every day is Happy Hour, when guests can mingle over beer, wine and appetizers. And every night when you come in from a dinner out or a concert in town, you’re greeted by homemade cookies left in the front hall for each guest. It’s a similar vibe to visiting a beloved family member, love is shown through food and conversation.
I visited during the holiday season and the home was decorated with incredible expertise. Each room had its own tree and one of the property managers told me they close down the whole inn for a week to get the decorations in place. In addition to holiday cheer, the property has a number of amenities to take advantage of including multiple porches, a patio, an outdoor pool and bikes to get around the island.
Flint provided wonderful recommendations for spots to dine at and visit during the stay and had a deep historical knowledge of the property and the local architecture. Bed and breakfasts often get a bad rap for being stodgy and stuffy, but The Fairbanks House does everything a BnB should, it provides warm, welcoming, and luxurious accommodations with a deeply personal touch.
What to Do
Amelia Island benefits from both the pristine beaches of the Atlantic Ocean side and the calm gulf waters pointing inland. To get a sense of the geography of the island, take a boat tour with Amelia Island River Cruises.
I took the Cumberland Island tour which takes you past Amelia Island and around Cumberland Island, right up to the border of Georgia. The 2.5 hour tour provides a fascinating overview of Amelia Island’s history and the interesting ecology that can be found on Cumberland Island. You’ll likely spot wild horses, dolphins, and other natural wildlife on the tour.
One of the things that drew me to Amelia Island initially was the rich history. American Beach on the southern tip of the island has a particularly fascinating story. In the 1930s Abraham Lincoln Lewis, the first Black millionaire in Florida, purchased American Beach and established a resort community for Black vacationers who weren’t welcome elsewhere due to segregation. You can read more about that history in my article for The Bay State Banner.
To learn more about the history of the island, visit the Amelia Island Museum of History, a small but mighty museum housed in Fernandina’s former jail. The museum offers a robust and diverse history of the island as well as a deep collection of oral histories from locals. To learn more specifically about the American Beach history, the American Beach Museum has created an augmented reality experience that illustrates the beach’s rich background while you stroll across the sandy dunes.
One of the most interesting experiences I had on the island was touring through the Omni Amelia Island Resort’s Sprouting Project. The resort is worth visiting no matter what, it boasts a beautiful poolscape and beach access and a number of different eateries. But the Sprouting Project really drew me in. Executive Chef Omar Collazo and his team utilize a tract of land to cultivate their own vegetables, craft their own vinegars and hot sauces, harvest honey from local bees, distill vinegars, grow herbs, and many other culinary farming endeavors. The fruits of these labors supply some of the many restaurants on the resort and the honey and hot sauce can also be purchased at the Marche Burette gourmet market.
The Sprouting Project isn’t open to the public on a regular basis, but the resort hosts a number of themed dinners and cooking classes in the space throughout the year. What struck me about this project is that I haven’t seen many large scale resorts approaching sustainability and local sourcing in this way. I was also impressed by how it brought the culinary team together. Each team member utilizes their skills and knowledge to cultivate a different piece of the urban garden. This fosters a new level of pride in the work they’re doing at the resort and makes what could be a very corporate dining experience much more personal.
From a cultural standpoint, historic Fernandina is full of dynamic local art galleries and small businesses. The Amelia Island Chamber Music Festival runs through spring 2022 and produces some spectacular shows on the island. I had the good fortune to see Wynton Marsalis and the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra at Fernandina’s First Baptist Church and it was a phenomenal show. Still to come is a Tango Argentina (!) show in March, the Gibson Brothers, the Zukerman Trio and many more.
For shopping, Book Loft has been a staple on Fernandina’s main drag for decades. Just a few storefronts down you’ll find The Tea and Spice Exchange of Fernandina Beach, a very cool shop where they sources and mix their own teas, salts, and spices. Downtown historic Fernandina is extremely walkable and best experienced on foot where you can connect with the local community and pop into shops and restaurants with ease.
Where to Eat
Come to the island with an empty stomach because the food scene is one of Fernandina’s best attractions. What surprised me most about the food scene wasn’t just the quality but the diversity of cuisines. The overall population of the island too was dynamic.
One of the first restaurants I experienced on the island was Wicked Bao, an Asian street food spot run by island local Nathalie Wu. Nathalie’s passion for the community and her cuisine is evident from the moment you meet her. When I arrived she was chatting with customers at the restaurant entrance, recommending dishes and explaining how the restaurant flows. She is an energetic and welcoming host.
On the menu I was struck by the seasonally rotating sake sangria, a genius fusion cocktail concept I haven’t spotted before. It’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Crispy Pork Chop Rice is one of the restaurant’s best sellers, featuring Asian slaw and sweet chili sauce. The Rice Tots, made with Jasmine rice and sugar, pressed and fried are delicious and also feature as the rice base for the Tuna Poke. The Bao Trio is the best way to experience the restaurant’s namesake dish, you get to sample a classic pork belly variety, a Korean Bulgogi beef flavor, and a fried chicken variation.
Hola! Cuban Cafe is another must visit restaurant in historic Fernandina. Run by a husband and wife duo, both first generation Cuban-Americans, Hola! is a neighborhood hot spot for cafecito and conversation. They offer a selection of casual Cuban eats, most notable baked and fried empanadas and classic Cuban sandwiches. If you only have time for dessert grab a coffee and the fried Dulce de Leche Empanadas. I’m still dreaming about them.
For a romantic meal, head to Le Clos, a longtime French restaurant on the island housed in a charming cottage. They feature a classic French menu, a robust wine list, and a cozy and intimate atmosphere. I enjoyed the Escargot with a glass of prosecco and the Salmon roasted with garlic cream of shallots, sun-dried tomato, spinach and served with chive whipped potatoes. The salmon was one of Flint’s stellar recommendations.
Marche Burette is a gourmet market and deli on the Omni Amelia Island Resort property. It’s a great place for brunch or lunch while exploring the southern side of the island. The Brunch Tower was particularly impressive. Presented in a tower like high tea offerings might be, the meal has pastries and fruit, a sweet dish that rotates daily, and then a savory selection of eggs, potatoes and sausage. You can order the dish for 1+ people and it forever solves the sweet versus savory breakfast debate.
I didn’t have time in my busy itinerary to sample the beer at local hotspot Mocama Beer Company, but I did swing by for coffee before leaving the island. In the past year the brewery has expanded their offerings to serve artisanal coffee drinks and pastries in the mornings before opening the brewery side of the beautiful industrial space in the afternoons. I think it’s a very smart way to utilize the property and service an additional audience in the community.
Amelia Island is a hidden gem on the Northern Florida coast. It offers the history of Saint Augustine, the cultural scene of Saint Petersburg, and the foodie attractions of Miami, all in 13 beautiful miles.
Please note: I was provided with complimentary accommodations, transportation, experiences, and meals by the Amelia Island Tourist Development Council, however, all opinions expressed are my own.