Last week I had the pleasure of spending a few days in Martha’s Vineyard with my friend Vincent from Taste of Massachusetts. We were hosted by the Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce, thank you so much for a wonderful trip! Vincent is food focused and I’m all about the arts (although I don’t mind supplementing with a cocktail and some oysters) so our outing was a perfect blend of culture and cuisine.
How to Get There
It’s very easy to get the Vineyard, even if you don’t drive. You can choose to drive to the ferry in Woods Hole and either park there or take your car on the ferry to the island (this is what Vincent and I did). Or you can take a bus from South Station in Boston directly to the ferry terminal and hop on as a passenger.
The ferry ride is only about a half hour on the way there, maybe 45 minutes on the way back. It’s a large boat so there’s very little rocking. One important note for my stylish travelers, wear pants on the ferry. It’s extremely windy and no dress will be safe if you go on deck to see the view.
Where to Stay
We stayed in Edgartown at the Hob Knob, a luxury boutique hotel in a historic home that’s within walking distance to most things in town. The hotel is very charming, it maintains the feel of an ancestral homestead with a dining room where guests eat breakfast and several sitting rooms, but includes luxury amenities like spa treatments
Outside the Hob Knob has a glorious wrap around porch filled with serene seating areas to read the morning paper or enjoy a glass of wine in the evening. We ordered takeout one night and ate it on the porch, a really nice option in this age of social distancing.
Stay tuned for a more in depth article on the Hob Knob and its rich history in Edgartown.
What to Do
We were only on island for about 30 hours, but we packed a lot in! For an art and history fix head to the Martha’s Vineyard Museum, a space that focuses on the breadth of the island and its past, rather than just focusing on say, whaling. This was a very cool museum, they have contemporary art installations alongside fascinating exhibits about key historical moments, like lighthouses and the fishing trade. It presents a really unique and interesting perspective of life on the Vineyard.
I’ll admit, I’ve always viewed Martha’s Vineyard primarily as a playground for wealthy white families. There are indeed a number of wealthy residents, but this trip showed me that the island is much more diverse and avant garde than I’d originally thought. The information at the museum underscores this, discussing native populations and contemporary seasonal immigration to the Vineyard. We also encountered people of all ages and backgrounds on our trip. It was refreshing to see this other side of the island.
And of course, what’s a trip to an island without hitting the beach? I love the beach in the cooler months. Watching the sunrise or sunset all snuggled up in a blanket is so good for the soul. The Edgartown Lighthouse and beach are only a 15 minute walk from Hob Knob. I recommend bringing coffee or wine in a thermos with you!
I’m counting a trip to Murdick’s Fudge as a thing to do rather than a food stop because it’s about so much more than just eating the fudge. The group that runs Murdick’s has been in the fudge business for more than 100 years, and it really shows. They make the dessert in their time honored process in the shop for passersby to watch. I highly recommend you slip in for a viewing, it’s like watching an artist complete a canvas. Pictured below is the Cape Cod Cranberry fudge in action.
A stroll through Edgartown’s main street is another great way to spend an afternoon. In addition to Murdick’s Fudge you’ll find all kinds of adorable, local shops. I picked up a volume at Edgartown Books, a very charming bookstore with a robust selection.
I also loved Juniper, part gallery, part floral arranging service, part purveyors of curated local goods mostly by female makers. One of the wonders of Martha’s Vineyard is that chain stores are banned. Only a few that were grandfathered in exist on the island. It’s wonderful to know that every dollar you spend is going back into the local economy, supporting on-island business owners and artists.
Where to Eat
After all that shopping you’re going to be hungry! The Vineyard offers a wide variety of dining options from supremely casual to very high end. It’s an especially tough business because of the seasonal nature of the island so restaurants really have to be good to survive. Click the arrow on the images below to see more.
Our first meal was at Coop de Ville and what a welcome it was! Interestingly, this oceanside spot specializes in chicken wings. The owner said they can go through 600 pounds on a busy day. They also have a raw bar and all the classic seafood favorites, like whole lobsters. The restaurant is set right next to the water for a very serene dining experience and the casual atmosphere is great for kicking off a vacation. There’s a real sense of camaraderie at this spot, you can tell its a favorite with locals and visitors alike.
Atria was a spectacular dining option that our host said couldn’t be missed. Luckily we got a meal in just before they closed for the season. This avant-garde spot was only doing takeout due to COVID-19 so we took advantage of Hob Knob’s beautiful porch and ate takeout there. Atria offers many different kinds of cuisine, for example ginger braised sticky pork ribs to start, then The McRip Off burger inspired by a Big Mac, followed by seared shrimp tacos, and thick cut swordfish with dill whipped potatoes. The astounding thing is, they do it all well. It’s an especially satisfying dining experience when the chef wields creative freedom.
For late night sugar cravings, head to Backdoor Donuts. Located literally at the backdoor of the donut shop, there’s often a line for these delectable treats. It’s worth the wait. The craze right now is the apple fritter, a light, creamy alternative to apple cider donuts, but you can cover any flavor palate here.
For a casual hangout spot you can’t beat Bad Martha’s Brewery. They brew beers on site and have a beautiful patio space for COVID-19 friendly flights. I particularly loved their Blackberry Sour but it’s hard to go wrong when the ingredients are sourced locally. To really knock things up a level, they serve gorgeous charcuterie spreads (along with pizza and other bites) to accompany the beverages. We could’ve spent the whole day here enjoying the relaxing space.
Breakfast is offered at the Hob Knob but for second breakfast the Edgartown Diner is a classic spot. Outfitted in a retro 1950s style they serve breakfast all day. We sampled the highly recommended Southern Benedict with grilled cornbread, fried chicken, poached eggs, and gravy, it was delicious. The chef also sent out the Crispy Brussels Sprouts with two sunny side eggs, spinach, asparagus, bacon bits, and hollandaise. The Brussels Sprouts were wonderfully savory and a nice way to get some veggies in after two days of serious eating.
Even for a short 30 hour trip, Martha’s Vineyard was a dream. Local shops, authentic art, a rich history, and endless menus for delicious meals. It’s also a great option for a socially distanced staycation here in Massachusetts. Everyone was very careful about wearing masks, respecting space, and providing hand sanitizer. We felt very safe the whole time.
Please note: I was provided with complimentary goods and services by the Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce and the above businesses, however, all opinions expressed are my own.